"Convivial" to say the least...

“(gah-zell-ig) Dutch adj. for convivial, cosy, or nice atmosphere, but also belonging, general togetherness, or time spent with loved ones.”  This is what you’ll find printed at the bottom of the menu and if I didn’t know the meaning of this difficult to translate Dutch word before, I definitely know it now and even more importantly, have just experienced it at 337 Richmond Road.   Stephen Beckta along with Executive Chef Michael Moffat and Chef Che Chartrand has hit a home run in Westoboro’s newest gem, Gezellig.

Ever since I first wrote about my excitement and anticipation for the arrival of Steve’s third installment to Ottawa’s culinary scene I’ve been salivating at the chance to sample its cuisine.  Ever since the doors opened in late October, the restaurant has been pretty much filled to capacity and tonight was no exception; and with good reason.  This restaurant is a delicious as it is visually stunning.

The space inside Gezellig is grand and open and yet still manages to feel incredibly cozy and warm.  It literally feels like the great room of a beautiful home.  I want the inside of my home to look like this.  Sophisticated and inviting with warm colors and plenty of wood accents; gorgeous.

Like Play and Beckta, the wine list at Gezellig is stellar.  Sommelier and resident wine director Grayson McDiarmid, who I also found out teaches at Algonquin’s Sommelier program and has taught some of the staff at Steve’s other establishments, has put together an incredible collection of wines to pair with your meal. 

Tonight’s choice was a bottle of Bordeaux-Superieur, Pezat, Ch. Teyssier, 2008.  The dry yet fruity and full-bodied wine with a hint of spicy notes was the perfect choice for what Chef Che had in store.

Bordeaux-Superieur, Pezat, Ch. Teyssier, 2008

Tonight’s meal started off with a romaine salad with roasted tomatoes & squash topped with a maple-Vidalia vinaigrette.  The aroma of the vinaigrette dressing was incredible and after smelling it from the couple seated behind us, I knew I had to try it and it didn’t disappoint.  The squash along with the squash seeds and oregano balanced out the sweetness in the maple vinaigrette.

Romaine salad, roasted tomatoes & late squash,
maple-Vidalia vinaigrette, squash seeds, oregano

Whenever I see beef tartare on a menu I just have to try it.  Ever since I first sampled tartare I’ve been in love with the dish.  The tartare at Gezellig is among the best I’ve ever had.  Topped with a fried egg and some toasted home baked sour dough bread, it was bursting with flavor and melted in your mouth.  The hint of lemon and mustard along with the light garnish of chives complimented the meat perfectly.

Beef tartare, lemon oil crostada, fried egg, puffed mustard

I’ve never been much of a fan of lamb.  I’ve always found it to be gamey no matter how it was prepared and I also never understood why one always paired it with mint jelly.  Chef Che dispelled that misconception with his braised lamb shank with cinnamon spatzle, wilted coriander, preserved lemon, ricotta and Frank’s Red Hot sauce roasted peanuts.  It’s true some people really do put that sh*t on everything!  I’ve never enjoyed lamb more in my life.  It was hard to believe I was eating lamb.  This was the first time I’ve ever eaten a braised meat and the shank was just bursting with the red wine and spices it was cooked in and the meat fell off the bone.  It was incredibly tender and flavorful.   The cinnamon spatzle was also to die for.  It was my first time eating spatzle and I’d eat it all again in a heartbeat.

Braised lamb shank, cinnamon spatzle, wilted coriander,
preserved lemon, ricotta, Frank’s peanuts

Not being satisfied with just tartare, I also sampled the Wellington County shortrib steak with miso butter sauce, sautéed mushrooms and a side of parmesan fries.  Now before you ask yourself why one would put parmigiano on fries, you haven’t lived until you’ve tasted these.  These fries were by far the tastiest I’ve ever eaten.  The idea of using parmigiano as a means to salt something is brilliant!  People do it with sauces all the time and I also recently tried it in soup.  Seriously, don’t knock the latter until you’ve tried it.  I would go back to Gezellig for these fries alone, they were that good.  The steak was cooked to perfection and would rival Ottawa’s finest steak houses.  The medley of mushrooms sautéed in the miso sauce made each bite tastier than the last.  It reminded me of a dish at Beckta I enjoyed called Mushrooms on Toast, which also used variety of mushrooms with differing textures and flavors to create a unique experience in every bite. 

Wellington County shortrib steak, miso butter sauce,
sauteed mushrooms, parmesan fries

And that’s what I interpret Steve and Michael’s goal with Gezellig - to bring the best of both Play and Beckta together to create a unique yet familiar dining experience.  Gezellig’s plates are every bit as delicious as both of its older siblings and the presentation and quality of the dishes are far superior to the “neighborhood restaurant” billing Steve and Michael would have you believe.

Last but not least the meal ended with a decadent yet light “butter finger” peanut butter, white & dark chocolate cake paired with a glass of 2007 Late Harvest Cabernet, Angel’s Gate desert wine from the Niagara region.  For anyone who loves chocolate and peanut butter, this desert is for you.   The late harvest Cabernet did not have that overly sweet and syrupy flavor that most desert wines have and in fact, it was a great way to cleanse the pallet before sinking your teeth into the cake and fully appreciating its decadence.

“Butter Finger,” peanut butter, white & dark chocolate

And what would be a Stephen Beckta restaurant without the 5-star staff.  Gerry along with everyone at Gezellig was stellar, thoughtful and attentive.  Even on a busy night like tonight, I was able to take a few minutes of Chef Che’s time to thank him for the incredible meal.  He was an absolute joy to meet and very gracious and down to earth.

And that is what is at the heart Gezellig’s appeal.  At its core lies an unpretentious, friendly and inviting restaurant where the staff, food and decor absolutely make you feel cozy, warm and among loved ones.  It is “gezellig” in name and definitely in spirit.  I can’t wait to go back again!

Gezellig
337 Richmond Road
Ottawa, ON
613-680-9086
info@gezelligdining.ca

Ik kijk uit naar mijn bezoek aan GEZELLIG!

I’m brushing up on my Dutch as Stephen Beckta prepares to make the nation’s capital a little more gezellig.  It’s a Dutch word that is said to be virtually untranslatable (according to Wikipedia), but is at the heart of Dutch culture as the Dutch tend to love all things gezellig (click on the word to hear how it is pronounced).  The word generally means something that is comforting, relaxing or enjoyable to someone who is gregarious.  If you don't believe me, listen to the Ambassador to Canada from the Kingdom of the Netherlands, Wim Geertstell tell you all about it!

If this is in fact what Beckta (who lived in Amsterdam for about a year and a half) is trying to achieve with his third installment of culinary delight when Gezellig opens its doors in November at the corner of Richmond road and Churchill avenue, yours truly cannot wait to venture inside and see what Executive Chef Micheal Moffat and Chef Che Chartrand have in store for patrons.  Chartrand, who sold his business Chez Eric in Wakefield to become the Chef de Cuisine at Gezellig, is learning the ropes at Play to prepare when Gezellig opens.

Outside of Gezellig, inside Stephen Beckta was busy working away.
He is the epitome of hard work and dedication.  One minute
overseeing the operation of Play or Beckta and serving patrons their dishes
to passing a shop vac.

So with Beckta being haute cuisine and Play being more of a informal yet upscale tapas styled restaurant, what can we expect from Gezellig?  Both Beckta and Moffat have said that their third installment will be more of a neighborhood type restaurant with a more traditional menu consisting of appetizers, main courses and desserts but that patrons of Play and Beckta will still see some influences from the former with some sharing plates. Judging from the articles that I’ve read thus far I believe that Gezellig will take the best of Play and Beckta and make it homey, familiar and comforting that will quickly become a gem in the heart of Westboro. 

Early photos of the inside renovations of Gezellig.  Photo courtesy of ottawafoodies.com

The restaurant is to be an open concept with two floors and a total of approximately 100 seats, with one third of them in the upper mezzanine and the rest on the main floor for a total of about 2500 square feet of dining space with the main kitchen under the mezzanine and a preparatory kitchen and wine cellar in the basement.  I remember that building as the Toronto Dominion bank when I was a child growing up in the area and remember how dingy and claustrophobic the space felt.  I can’t wait to see how that has changed.  I’ve driven by on numerous occasions trying to catch a glimpse of what it will look like inside.  From what I’ve seen to date it will be stunning.

Menu prices should be fairly reasonable with main dishes averaging in the $20 dollar range.  One thing that I’m really looking forward to is Beckta’s take on brunch as Gezellig plans to serve brunches on Saturdays and Sundays.  Beckta hopes that his neighborhood styled restaurant will bring in regular diners on a twice-a-week basis.  I have no doubt that he will, given the talent he will have in the kitchen and on the floor.

As everyone knows I love all things Stephen Beckta.  Play and Beckta are my two favorite restaurants in this city; not only for their food but also their service.  Both of which, if I’m using the word correctly, are pretty gezellig as it is.  I can only imagine what his latest neighborhood resto is going to be like and I hope to be one of the first to walk through Gezellig’s doors when it opens.  Hmmm maybe I should camp out a night or two before just to make sure.  Stay tuned for my review of my gezellig experience until then my homework for my readers is to come up with a sentence using the word “gezellig”.

Eet smakelijk!

Gezellig
337 Richmond Road
Ottawa, ON
613-680-9086

Beckta Dining & Wine: World Class Fare and Service

Beckta Dining & Wine

I don’t like to think that I’m very special or above anyone else in life.  It’s been a quirk of mine for a very long time.  When I became a team lead in high tech and subsequently a supervisor and then a manager in the government, I was very reluctant to have formal meetings with my direct reports often trying to favour a less formal approach to meeting with them.  I would very rarely speak in terms of “my employees” or “yes he/she works for me” favouring the idea of we were all colleagues rather than being in a superior / subordinate working dynamic.

This notion often transcends my day-to-day life, particularly when eating at restaurants.  I was never comfortable with the idea that I was being “served” by a waiter and even more so when I’m referred to as “Sir”.  Like at work, I am more attracted to a dining experience whereby the evening is an engaging and unpretentious experience among colleagues or better yet friends.

Dining at Beckta really is that idea incarnate.  Steve Whittaker, the restaurant’s manager as well as frommager (more commonly referred to a cheese sommelier) is Beckta’s front door.  Once a reservation is made, Steve will send an email or more often will call you personally to greet you and thank you for your reservation and ask if you have any special requests.  If you’ve elected to try the tasting menu, he will ask if there are any dining restrictions as well.

Over the years of dining at Beckta I’ve gotten to know several of the staff members, in particular, Tristan (who sadly no longer works there) and more recently CJ.  CJ is hands down the very best at what he does.  From the moment you sit down you feel like you’re reconnecting with an old friend you haven’t seen in years and he really does make you feel like you’re the only person in the room.  His broad smile, infectious friendly demeanour and last but not least his intimate knowledge of the evening’s menu and wine pairings are second to none.  CJ and Steve are the very embodiment of the experience I yearn for when going out for dinner.

Souvenir Menu

The décor at Beckta is minimalism at its best.  From the natural wood tones, and warm paint colors with sparse artwork to the simple place settings and white table linens with subdued background music, Executive Chef Michael Moffatt and his team’s creations can take front and center stage.  Dining at Beckta is intimate dining at its best regardless of how busy it is.  One never gets the sense of a crowded room full of boisterous conversations.



Dining Room

Out of the half dozen times I have had the pleasure of dining at Beckta, the most memorable visit was the 8-course tasting menu with wine pairing.  At $110 plus an additional $75 for the optional wine pairing per person, this meal really is a once in a lifetime even for the average diner.  As I write this I can practically hear the reader’s gasp in shock at the price however make no mistake; if you enjoy fine dining and want to sample the cooking of one of Canada’s top restaurants, it is well worth it.  I’ve eaten in more expensive New York City restaurants serving similar tasting menus for nearly double the price and it wasn’t nearly as enjoyable.  The tasting menu at Beckta is, as they say, pound for pound the best tasting menu dining experience for your money you will ever have.  If the idea of consuming eight courses of food is too arduous, Beckta also serves a 5-course tasting menus for $85 with an optional wine pairing for an additional $39.  Diners can also enjoy an optional cheese course for $16, where they will be treated to Steve’s impeccable taste and knowledge in cheese and will likely sample some special in-house enhanced or made chesses by Steve himself.  If a la carte dining is more to your liking, the average prices for appetizers are $17 and mains are $36.

The evening’s adventure began with hamachi sashimi with a nori vinaigrette and ponzu paired with Champagne Brut “Cuvé Saint Flavy” Georges Gardet, France N.V.   The hamachi (also known as Japanese Yellowtail or amberjack) simply melted in your mouth and the nori (edible seaweed) vinaigrette complimented the dish perfectly with the champagne capping off this delectable play on sushi.

Hamachi Sashimi with Nori Vinaigrette and Ponzu

 

Next up was a rabbit rillette with a ramp paint and homemade mustard paired with a 2008 German Riesling Kabinette by Daniel Vollenweider named “Wolfer Goldgrube.  The rillette was so light and fresh.  I’ve never tasted ramps before.  Ramps are a variety of wild leaks that have a pervasive garlic flavor and strong onion odour and in Canada are considered a rare delicacy as they are mostly found around South Carolina up through Canada.  The ramp pain really complimented the rabbit and combined with the mustard and the sweetness of the Riesling definitely left me wanting more of it.

Rabbit Rillette with Ramp Paint and Mustdard

Following the rabbit we were served BC spot prawns with hiyashi wakame and togarashi hollandaise paired with a Greek Assyrtico “Thalassitis” wine.  This was a really interesting dish as it paired Japanese cuisine with a Greek wine.  The flavour of the Japanese seaweed salad (hiyashi wakame) infused with the hint of heat from the togarashi (Japanese for chili peppers) hollandaise married perfectly with the dryness of the Assyrtico with a hint of sweetness.

BC Spot Prawns with Hiyashi Wakame and Togarashi Hollandaise

 

Our palates were then teased with a 7 grain risotto with snap peas, fresh goat cheese and camelina oil that was paired with an exquisite 2008 Pinot Noir from Voss Vineyards in Martinborough New Zealand.  The risotto was done to perfection and the creaminess of the home gave the risotto even more richness in flavor and texture.  The Pinot Noir was an excellent segue for our palates as we prepared for the next dish.

7 Grain Risotto with Snap Peas, Fresh Goat Cheese and Camelina Oil

 

Speaking of New Zealand, if one were to compare this expansive meal to a flight from Ottawa to Martinborough New Zealand, right now we’d be flying over Hawaii…

The second half of this journey began spatch-cockerel (young male rooster aged between 4 to 12 months) in a brandy cream jus with chanterelle mushrooms and white asparagus paired with a 2007 Cabernet Franc from one of my favourite vineyards, Stratus VQA from Niagara-on-the-Lake.  This was the first time I’ve ever tried rooster and I can honestly say I’ve never eaten a tenderer piece of foul in my life.  The mushrooms and asparagus were also cooked to perfection and definitely enhanced the smoky pepper aromas from the Cabernet Franc.

I have never really been a big fan of lamb, however I was blown away with Chef Moffatt’s “tagine” styled lamb in preserved lemon with grilled potatoes and truffle oil that was paired with a glass of Tuscan Petra Quercegobbe (an Italian Merlot) from 2006.  The lamb simply melted in your mouth.  The most interesting thing I noticed about this dish was the lack of the gamy bold flavor that has turned me off of lamb in the past.  This lamb was succulent and ate like a top notch cut of filet mignon.  The boldness of the Merlot was a welcomed surprise and enhanced the steak like properties of the lamb without the strong tannins that one would typically find in a robust tasting wine.

Lamb "Tagine" with Preserved Lemon, Grilled Potatoes and Truffle Oil

 

After such a savory assault on our senses, our palettes were “cleansed” with a trio of sorbets (buttermilk, ginger and avocado) that were accompanied with some homemade macaroons and yuzu (a strongly aromatic citrus fruit indigenous to East Asia, most akin to a grapefruit).

Buttermilk, Ginger and Avocado Sorbets

 

Last but not least our journey ended with a chocolate sour cherry brownie with cognac pudding and lavender “soil” that was paired with a medium bodied 2003 Tawny Port from Delaforce in Portugal.  The variety of aromas and flavors that were experienced from this desert were sheer joy.  There were even homemade marshmallows in the shape of mushrooms that really made the presentation of the dish pure art.  

Chocolate Sour Cherry Brownie with Cognac Pudding and Lavender Soil

 

I cannot say enough good things about my dining experiences at Beckta.  I’ve had the pleasure of dining at Stephen Beckta’s flagship restaurant several times and have enjoyed both the 5 and 8 course tasting menus along with items from his incredible a la carte menu.  My favourite is by far their Quebec Magret duck served with sun dried Cherry Gnocchi, Arugula, Summer Succotash, Chanterelle Mushrooms and Fresh Cherry Cumberland Sauce.

If you want to experience the very best in service, hospitality and fine dining that this city has to offer, I would give Steve Whittaker at Beckta a call and make your reservation today.  Make sure you ask for CJ and tell them I’ve sent you.  I promise you will be treated to a culinary adventure you won’t soon forget!

Beckta Dining & Wine

226 Nepean Street, Ottawa ON

http://www.beckta.com